![]() With a draw through, roots style positive displacement blower, you always have pressure difference in the manifold, relative to vacuum in the carb. They were always about 4-5" different When the carb gauge went to zero the boost gauge went to about 4#. It didn't break immediately, but down the road a few months it did.Īlso, I had 2 vacuum gauges on it, one under the carb and the other was a vacuum/boost gauge in the manifold. It would pull down to 2800 and stay there where it only had 25 degrees advance at full throttle. ![]() Like coming up out of Lewiston, ID on 195 toward Spokane, or I-70 west out of Denver. There were times out west when I'd pull a 10% grade for 45 minutes to an hour getting up some of those mountain roads at full throttle. That has a tendency to break the snout off the crank just like a tractor puller when it bogs down. The issue is and was, that the torque peak was 2800 RPM, not 4500 RPM. It came with a big cast iron pulley on the crank and I found out that there are sheet metal pulleys out there in the salvage yards which I used. You know what the monkey said when he pissed in the cash register? "This is gonna run into money!"Ĭlick to expand.Actually, it had a short water pump with the 6 row serpentine blower drive pulley on the damper, it did have a 105A alternator but I only used one v-belt and it has power steering, no air compressor. There is a lot to a big snout, whether you buy or modify a crank yourself. That requires a modified stock front cover, or finding an old Weiand or Moon or some such aluminum cover machined for the big seal. Oh, don't forget the larger seal needed too. Make sure it is a steel gear, not the typical powder metal variety. Now you need to accurately locate the keyway in relation to the number one throw, then bore the crank gear and broach it for the bigger snout. If you have machine shop access and the required skills and really feel the need to run the large snout you could face off the front main, drill and tap the crank for a LH thread like maybe 5/8 or 3/4 and weld a snout on and then finish grind it. Listen to Mad Mikey, belt tension is critical. I toolmaker I worked with years ago snapped two SBC steel crank snouts with his V6-71 running too tight a belt, but some guys never learn. If you are going to run a blower drive that uses a harmonic balancer rather than a steel hub for the lower pulley then I'd recommend a steel balancer but still I think the single key will be fine on the street at 5# boost. On the street with the occasional blast through the gears I'd leave the crank stock. Really depends on what you plan to do with the car.
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